Quarterly Scientific-Research Goljaam

One of the pre-treatment processes on silk is degumming that has much influences on other processing. There are various degumming methods and each one has its own advantages and disadvantages. In this research protease (Alkalase) and Keliab (remaining ashes of "Oshnow" plant obtained from Qom, Yazd and Kashan) used as environmentally friendly compounds for degumming of silk. Different concentration of enzyme with soda ash and surfactant and also Keliab were examined. Some properties of degummed samples such as weigh loss, strength, lightness and whiteness were tested and surface morphology also was observed by SEM. The degummed yarns then dyed with madder, using two types of mordant namely stannous chloride (SnCl2) and aluminium-potassium sulphate AlK(SO4)2. The color coordinates L*a*b* and washing fastness and light fastness of samples were evaluated. The results showed that weigh loss percentages, strength and whiteness of samples varied due to degumming with Alkalase and Keliab. However, washing fastness and light fastness of madder dyed samples were acceptable.

This research work involves the dyeing of wool yarns with saffron petals as a source for green color. At first step woolen pile yarns treated with four different mordents, namely: tin chloride, copper sulfate, aluminum sulfate and iron(II) sulfate in acidic condition using acetic, oxalic, citric and lactic acids respectively. In this study the possibility of using saffron petals as a natural dye for wool yarn was investigated. By using different mordents a range of hues from green to yellow and brown was obtained. Color parameters, washing fastness, rubbing fastness (wet & dry) and light fastnesses of the dyed yarns were measured. It can be concluded that the best mordents for dyeing wool yarn with saffron petal to obtain green color are tin chloride and aluminum sulfate. The results of fastness tests of samples treated with tin chloride are poorer so that the best suggested mordent for dyeing wool with saffron to get green color is aluminum sulfate.